
Skyborry
Why did you start this? How did it all unravel and what were you doing beforehand?
My brother and I started this together. I (Dan) run a pizza restaurant in Presteigne – Daphne’s – with my wife. Adam worked for a cider and apple juice maker in Herefordshire, and we came together to start Skyborry in our mid 20’s in 2010. We didn’t have any real experience in cider making and we started off by making it in the garage at our family home. The processes have changed over the years with a lot of experimenting, but we feel we’ve got to a place we want to be. We managed to establish ourselves in the natural wine market in 2015 and nicely slotted ourselves into that. We tried lots of different processes such as keeving which they use in Normandy, but it meant adding lots of extra things (enzymes and calcium solutions) in the fermentation stage that we didn’t think were necessary nor did we believe in. The recipe has surely gotten more simple and purer over the years. Our ethics always followed the notion of organic farming and eating. We already had a background in organic farming prior to the cider business, our uncle is an organic herb farmer, and we spent a lot of time there when we were younger so had that mentality engrained in us. We always knew that organic was the direction we were going in. Our orchard is in Wales and the cider shed is in 50m into Shropshire, so we’re balanced on the border which as you can imagine causes complications. We do tend to tie ourselves to the Welsh side however, as that’s where we grew up and have a strong cultural connection with.
Dan in his element at Daphnes.
I think it’s really important for people to know the day to day of running any business. I think this profession can be romanticised, like being a baker etc. Could we have a brief run through of what you have to do?
We’re very busy. Cider making was a side project which would make us a bit of money, but it wasn’t possible to be financially dependent on the business. I own a restaurant and Adam works for an organic market garden. I guess Skyborry is possible as our base is at our family home. It’s an intensive process, cider making, we’re often sat around constantly observing, it’s incredibly hands on. We do every part of it, just the two of us. It has become even more [hands on] over the years as we’re doing more bottling and disgorging, like champagne. It’s a big balance between our separate work and the cider making. We hand pick everything, we work in a tiny cider shed, constantly moving things around and trying to fit around all the equipment and each other.
In terms of the world of small food and farming, where do you feel that you fit into that? What is the importance of what you’re doing?
We grew up loving the outdoors and farming, especially organic farming methods. It’s essential to healthy living and eating. We were outdoorsy youngsters. We had a huge passion for the outdoors and land. So, I guess we fell in love with the process, heritage, and history of all the of the orchards before the drink more so. It’s a beautiful thing, making a product that people can enjoy from such incredibly beautiful locations with such a historical depth. This was something we could do together, as brothers, enjoying everything we value so much and what brought us together as children. There was a rising passion for natural wine and many high-end good restaurants in London were pushing us to make our cider even more natural. They wanted out produce but they wanted it in its purest form. We were asked to try to make the cider without the process of keeving. This opened a new interest for us, creating something with pure juice, to deliver the best possible drink.
Do you see yourselves expanding?
No. We never had and that wasn’t ever our intention. The markets have completely changed in the last couple of years. Friends have started in other places, across England. The market has blown up massively. I mean, yes, we could expand, we have so much experience, but we’d be giving up our ethics. It’s not possible to sell and produce that much with keeping the product pure. Of course, it feels tempting, there are so many things that it would offer but we’d have to move, build, and buy a farm. I guess the mentality of most people is that a business is doing well, they’re making profits and sales are great so the obvious thing to do is to expand but it’s really not that simple.
When designing the label, what did you have in mind? It somewhat reminds us of a vintage champagne bottle. We have lots of natural wines and we find it really interesting seeing the different labels and which producers really go for it… there are some natural wine fanatics that are adamant on keeping the label simple.
It’s the first year we’ve made this sort of change to our label. Prior to 2020, or labels were vibrant. Initially, it felt like a bit of a joke; that a product from Knighton could look so high priced. After 10 years, we finally feel established. It’s great that something from Knighton is making its way to beautiful restaurants across the country.We’re from Knighton and producing something that looks like a fine wine. The label is a rip off of the Beaujolais in the 1980s.
Jules and Guy were pioneers of natural wine making. People went to work with them before setting up their own natural wine’s businesses. They were a gang of four who specialised in biodynamic faming. So, our bottles are also in respect of them and it’s a really nice thing to have that attachment.
Craft beer and speciality coffee came into the UK and took off well. Then we had the wave of natural wines which are slowly but surely building their way up. What is the trend with the cider and perry that you are producing and how do you see it maintaining in the future?
I think it’s often seen as a revolution, a cider revolution for instance. When you’re making a slow food product however, it shouldn’t be seen as a revolution. It’s fundamental. We want a gradual like of it, we’re not fussed about having this immediate attraction and boom. I have felt unconfident of the powers of cider. Beer has always outsold cider 10x in Britain. We drink far more beer and wine in comparison. Cider is a lovely drink that has a tie and a place, you know, with cheese and crackers on a sunny afternoon. It’s a communal thing. It’s also not the only thing we drink. Cider is in the minority, and we really can’t see overtaking beer or wine, which is fine, but it doesn’t mean that there isn’t room for expansion in the realm of cider. Cider has a lot more of an identity crisis in comparison to wine or beer. There’s a complexity around cider being a beer. We’re falling more into the wine market than the craft beer market, but I think it’s important to remember that cider is not wine, it’s cider. So, I guess a part of our roll in this is also establishing a new market. It doesn’t work independently yet but that’s not to say it never will.
Certainly, in our experience as a small restaurant we have some customers who are totally enthusiastic and willing to try anything, but we then have customers who are a little more shy, they hear natural or organic, see it in a large bottle and the price and feel slightly apprehensive. How do we encourage people to switch from their typical ciders such as Strongbow or Thatchers that they get in a pub?
It needs to be accessible. Selling it by the glass is a great way to introduce people to the product, it means they don’t have to commit to a whole bottle which can feel daunting and allows for a slow introduction to a drink that has been lost.
-Helena Todd
To follow Dan and Adam in their cider and pizza adventures, have a look at their platforms. Instagram links below.
To follow what Dan and Adam are doing and keep up to date on their cider movement, have a look at the platforms.
Daphne’s pizza restaurant http://instagram.com/daphnes53highstreet